PERMANENT MARINE CORPS UNIFORM BOARD (PMCUB)

 

DRAFT

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CHAPTER 10

 

 

CARE AND MARKING OF UNIFORMS

 

 

SECTION 1:  CARE OF THE UNIFORM

 

 

 

SECTION 2:  MARKING OF CLOTHING

 

 

 

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SECTION 1:  CARE OF THE UNIFORM

 

10100.  GENERAL

 

1.  The following information is presented to help prolong the useful life of uniforms and accessories so that they may be worn with the justifiable pride, which distinguishes Marines in uniform.

 

2.  No matter how well-fitting a uniform is when new, it will not continue to look its best unless well cared for both during wear and when not in use.  A uniform should be put on carefully and kept buttoned.  Large or heavy objects carried in the pockets will soon destroy the shape of the uniform.  When not in use, carefully place uniforms on hangers and keep in a well-ventilated storage space.  Well-constructed wooden or plastic hangers shaped to fit the shoulder contour, with locking trouser bar or clips, are recommended.  When uniforms are folded in duffel bags or other containers for storage or shipment, fold them carefully to preserve their original shape.

 

10101.  DRESS UNIFORMS

 

1.  Because of less frequent wear, use particular care when storing dress uniforms.  Gold braid on evening dress uniforms may deteriorate if in close proximity to any substance containing sulphur, such as rubber and manila or craft paper.  High humidity or sharp temperature changes will also cause tarnishing if the uniform is not adequately protected.  An airtight plastic clothing bag with a packet of desiccant (drying agent) enclosed will give greatest protection.  Place the uniform carefully on a substantial hanger and store in a dry, cool, well-ventilated closet.  An experienced tailor should normally clean gold braid, although liquid nontoxic preparations available may be used if applied according to manufacturer's instructions.  Embroidered insignia may be kept bright by occasional scrubbing with a nail brush and a solution of ammonia and water.  Do this periodically, or as soon as any signs of tarnish or corrosion appears.  In case of severe corrosion, the insignia cannot be restored to its original condition and must be replaced.  The synthetic tarnish-resistant gold braided accessory items do not require heavy cleaning.  A soft cloth may be carefully used to remove dust.  Since temperature changes do not affect these items, store as required to protect the uniform fabric itself.

 

2.  According to manufacturer's label instructions, blue-white dress uniforms white items of polyester or polyester/rayon gabardine may be either professionally dry cleaned, or laundered and pressed.  As dry cleaning has frequently caused the polyester/rayon uniforms to become yellow or gray, hand or machine laundering of these uniforms is preferable.  Hand launder in warm water using mild detergent; scrub soiled areas; rinse thoroughly in clear warm water; dry without wringing.  Machine launder using a mild detergent; complete washing cycle for 30 minutes in 90-degree to 120-degree water; rinse thoroughly in clear warm water; set automatic dryer for regular fabrics and dry for 15 minutes.  If pressing is required, use a cool iron.  Do not use iron above rayon setting.  Do not use hot iron.

 

3.  Other dress uniforms should receive maximum care according to general instructions above and those for the particular type of uniform material.  Wool and polyester/wool uniforms are best maintained by dry cleaning by experienced dry cleaning establishments.

 

4.  Medals, insignia and other accessories should be cleaned and removed from the uniforms when not in use to reduce unnecessary strain on the material.

 

10102.  SERVICE UNIFORMS

 

1.  The same care required for a dress uniform is applicable to service uniforms; however, due to more constant use some additional measures may prove beneficial.  As heat, friction, and pressure have a deteriorating effect on materials, service uniforms generally show more wear at creased areas.  This may be partially offset by periodically pressing out old creases and reforming them slightly to either side of the previous crease.  Sleeve cuffs and trousers/slacks/skirt hems should be periodically examined and turned if material permits.  Dry cleaning preserves the original appearance and finish of wool and polyester/wool garments and is recommended over hand laundering. However, when dry cleaning facilities are not available, and only as a last resort, wool and polyester/wool uniforms may be hand laundered.  Hand launder with a neutral soap and fresh lukewarm water 70 to 80 degrees.  If hard water is used, add small amount of water softener to the water.  Do not use chlorine bleach.  In laundering, thick suds are necessary for best results.  The soap should be thoroughly dissolved in hot water and added to the cool water to reach a temperature of approximately 70 to 80 degrees.  In order to preserve the finish, rubbing should be minimized.  Rinse thoroughly to remove all traces of the soap.  Avoid high temperature, friction, and pressure as much as possible.  Never run through a wringer or never twist to remove the excess water before drying.  After washing the garments, squeeze gently to remove surplus water, shape garment by hand, and dry in open air.  Colored garments should not be hung in the sun to dry.  If this is unavoidable, garments should be turned inside out to dry.   

 

2.  Uniform items manufactured of polyester/cotton should not be bleached or starched.

 

>CH 5 10103.  CAMOUFLAGE UTILITY UNIFORMS.  Uniform obsolete as of 1 October 2006.

 

10104.  COMBAT UTILITY UNIFORM.  In order to maximize service life and maintain optimum performance, the following instructions should be followed when caring for the uniform:

 

1.  Wash in warm water and mild detergent containing no optical brighteners or bleach.  Tumble dry at low heat (not to exceed 130^o F).  Remove immediately from the dryer and fold flat or place on a rustproof hanger to ensure heat from the dryer does not set wrinkles.  To drip dry, remove from the washer/water and place on a rustproof hanger.  Do not wring or twist.

 

2.  A hand iron set on low heat may be used to individually press areas such as collar points or pocket flaps to help maintain a neat appearance.  Care should be taken when pressing creases, as the uniform is manufactured with permanent creases.  Improper pressing may result in multiple permanent creases.  No new creases may be created.

 

3.  The use of starch, sizing and any process that involves dry-cleaning or a steam press will adversely affect the treatments and durability of the uniform and is not authorized.

 

10105.  ALL-WEATHER COAT/TANKER JACKET.  The AWC and tanker jacket should be dry-cleaned only.  A water repellency treatment should be applied after four- or five-dry cleanings.

 

10106.  BUTTONS AND INSIGNIA

 

1.  Gold buttons are plated to prevent tarnishing and should not be polished with abrasives or polishing cloths containing chemicals.  Clean gold buttons with a weak solution of household ammonia and water.

 

2.  Gold-plated buttons that have had the plating removed are likely to turn green due to exposure to moist air.  This can be removed by rubbing gently with acetic acid or any substance containing this acid, such as vinegar, followed by a thorough washing in fresh water and drying.

 

3.  The gold-filled parts and the sterling silver rhodium-finished parts of metal insignia are cleaned by washing with soap and water.  Avoid using silver polish or abrasive.

 

4.  Service insignia will not be polished.  If the black finish wears off, replace the insignia or refinish with USMC approved liquid, black protective coating as sold through the Marine Corps Exchange.  Use of paints or other unapproved coloring agents is prohibited.

 

10107.  FOOTWEAR

 

1.  Maintenance of leather footwear is necessary to ensure maximum wear and to protect the healthy, sanitary condition of the feet.  When not in use, the shape of the shoes should be maintained using shoe trees.  Foot powder should be liberally sprinkled inside the shoe to absorb moisture.  Constant inspection is necessary to ensure prompt repair to avoid breakdown of the upper leather.

 

2.  Shoes should be kept clean as sand, dirt, grit, etc., have a deterioration action on shoe threads and shoe leather.  Clean leather uppers periodically with saddle soap, which is a leather preservative.  Dubbing should never be used on footwear as such compounds seal the pores of the leather and cause excessive perspiration.

 

3.  Synthetic Leather Shoes.  For normal care, these shoes may be cleaned by wiping with a damp cloth or sponge.  Occasional polishing with paste wax or cream polishes may be required; however, excess dust and dirt should be removed before polishing.  Use liquid polish with care to avoid streaking.  For white synthetic shoes use a good polish in moderate amounts.  To cover abrasion or scuff marks, apply a paste wax shoe polish, and then paste wax.  Stains should be wiped off as quickly as possible, and then cleaned.  For stubborn stains, try lighter fluid.  On white synthetic shoes, a mild abrasive cleaner may be used if rubbed gently.  Do not use chlorinated cleaners, bleaches, or harsh abrasives.  For cleaning, never use acetone, nail polish remover, chlorinated dry cleaning solvents, or alcohol.  When in doubt about a cleaner or polish, try a little on the instep, close to the sole.

 

4.  Marine Corps Combat Boots (MCCBs).  The brown MCCB (TW) and MCCB (HW) should be kept clean by using a stiff bristle brush to remove mud and dirt and then rinsing with plain water.  Allow the boots to naturally dry by placing them in cool, dry area with good air circulation.  Use of forced hot air to dry boots will stiffen the leather and cause cracks.  Application of special treatments, such as waterproofing sealants and wax polish will seal pores and restrict breathing of the leather and is not authorized.  Other treatments such as leather conditioning and saddle soap will cause excessive and permanent fading or darkening of the brown leather tanning and is not authorized.  The use of edge dressing is prohibited.  Spots worn smooth by excessive wear may be gently abraded with either a wire-bristle brush or rough-grain sandpaper until they have a surface area consistent with the other areas of the leather upper.

 

10108.  GREEN UNDERSHIRTS

 

1.  Although the dyed cotton material used in green undershirt has a strong tendency to fade, proper laundering and care will eliminate or reduce the probability of this occurring.  However, fading/discoloration alone does not render the undershirt unserviceable.

 

2.  Launder the green undershirt using the permanent press cycle or hand wash in cold or warm water.  Do not use bleach or detergents that contain bleaching agents.  Tumble dry on the permanent press cycle, drip dry on a rust-proof hanger, or line dry out of the sun's direct rays.  Allowing the undershirt to come in contact with oxidizing agents, such as benzyl peroxide (used in most acne medications) may cause spots that cannot be removed without ruining the shirt.

 

10109.  KHAKI WEB BELTS.  When belts are laundered, shrinkage is a normal reaction of untreated webbing.  To compensate for shrinkage, the belts are manufactured in two lengths, 45 and 50 inches.  Belts should be washed at least three times before cutting to normal waist size.  To prevent excess shrinkage after laundering, hand stretch the belts while wet.

 

10110.  STORING WOMEN'S SERVICE AND DRESS CAPS.  Utilize the packaging material (tissue paper and chipboard cylinder) as it was originally used for storing.  The cap should fit snugly within the box, with

tissue paper used to prevent shifting of the cap and to support the crown.  The chipboard cylinder should be placed flat (not on edge) within the crown to afford additional support.

 

10111.  SERVICE/DRESS SWEATERS.  Dry cleaning sweaters is recommended.  However, the sweaters may be hand laundered following the guidance in subparagraph 10102.1 for service uniforms.

 

10112.  SWORD AND SCABBARD

 

1.  The sword blade and scabbard with chrome plating have been plated to prevent rust; however, should the plating be removed by use of abrasives or as a result of scratches or misuse, rust is likely.  When not in use, the blade and the scabbard should be kept in a dry place and should be coated with a film of light oil.

 

2.  Clean the grip by wiping it with a damp cloth and drying thoroughly.

 

3.  The mountings on the sword and scabbard, including the hilt, are made of solid brass, highly polished or anodized.  For best results clean all mountings with a cloth moistened with soapsuds to which a few drops of household ammonia have been added.  Do not use abrasives or polishing cloths containing chemicals.  Wipe with a cloth moistened with clear water and dry thoroughly.

 

4.  The scabbard of the noncommissioned officers' sword is covered with leather and should be cleaned with saddle soap.  The sword blade and the gold-plated brass mountings should be maintained as indicated above.

 

10113.  WHITE VINYL COVERS/CAPS.  The white vinyl frame cap covers and the women's white dress vinyl caps may be cleaned with a soft brush (for light dirt/dust) or with a soft cloth dipped in warm soapy water.  Brushing/

cleaning motion should be in the direction of the grain of the vinyl.

 

10114.  MARTIAL ARTS UTILITY BELTS.  These belts are 46 inches in length and made of treated nylon.  They come in five colors, tan, gray, green, brown, and black, and as appropriate, have accompanying woven red or tan nylon stripes indicating instructor qualification.  The martial arts belt can be hand or machine laundered without bleach.

 

10115.  MATERNITY UNIFORMS.  The maternity tunic, slacks, and skirt may be dry cleaned or washed in warm water on the gentle cycle with mild detergent and allowed to drip dry.  Items may be tumble-dried if the dryer has an air cycle with no heat.  Do not bleach.  The maternity uniform should not be washed with other dark clothes.  If touch-up pressing is desired, a cool iron should be used.  Maternity shirts and the camouflage work uniform will be maintained in the same manner as the equivalent standard uniform items.

 

10116.  CUTS IN CLOTH.  For the utility uniform only, a clean cut in the uniform can be repaired by being rewoven with threads drawn from the material in another part of the garment.  This must be done by an experienced tailor and is an expensive process; however, a well re-woven cut cannot be noticed.

 

10117.  PREVENTING MOTH DAMAGE.  Frequent brushing and exposure to sunlight and fresh air will effectively prevent moths.  If uniforms are to be put away for a long time and left unattended, they should be thoroughly cleaned and packed in an airtight plastic bag or protected from moth damage.

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SECTION 2: MARKING OF CLOTHING

 

 

10200.  GENERAL

 

1.  Enlisted Marines will plainly and indelibly mark every article of uniform clothing with the owner's name (except for organizational clothing).  Marks will be of a size appropriate to the article and the space available for marking and will consist of block letters not more than 1/2 inch in size.  Marking machines, stencil, marking tape or labels, or stamp, as appropriate, may be used.  Names will be marked in black on light-colored material and inside the utility uniform and in white on dark-colored materials.  Marks will be placed so that they do not show when the uniform is worn except that nametapes will be worn on the outside of the utility uniform as prescribed in paragraph 3032.  When a marking tape or label is used, it should either be commercial or one made by printing or stamping the name on white tape, other than adhesive tape.  In order to standardize throughout the Marine Corps and prevent variation from station to station, no elaboration of the following guide for marking will be made, nor will any greater preciseness of location be prescribed.

 

2.  Articles marked with another individual's name will have the first owner's name obliterated by blocking out the name or using a commercial eradicator.  The new owner's name will be re-marked according to these instructions.  All re-marked clothing, with the exception of uniforms stamped “Recovered Clothing 1/2 Price” (RC 1/2) must be substantiated with an appropriate entry on the administrative remarks page of the service record book.

 

3.  If Marines have clothing marked according to previously published instructions, re-marking is not required until the markings become illegible.  If a Marine's name is legally changed, re-marking with the new name is not required until the old markings become illegible; however, an appropriate remark will be entered on the administrative remarks page of the service record book.

 

10201.  LOCATION OF NAME ON ARTICLES

 

1.  Bag, Duffel.  On the outside of the bottom of the bag. 

 

2.  Belts (Coats and all sword belts).  On the underside, near the buckle end. 

 

3.  Belts, Trouser (Khaki/white web and martial arts utility).  On one side only, as near the buckle end as possible.

 

4.  Caps.  Inside, on the sweatband.

 

5.  Coats.  Inside, on the neckband.

 

6.  Crown, Cap.  Inside, on the band.

 

7.  Drawers.  Outside, immediately below the waistband, near the front.

 

8.  Gloves.  Inside, at the wrist.

 

9.  Handbag.  On the space provided.

 

10. Liner (AWC).  Centered near the top.

 

11. Necktabs.  On the underside near left end.

 

12. Neckties.  On the inside of the neck loop.  (Hook-on ties; on the inside, near the top.)

 

13. Shirts.  Inside, on the neckband.

 

14. Shoes/Boots.  Inside, near the top.

 

15. Socks.  Outside, on top of the foot.

 

16. Sweater.  Stamped on manufacturing label or use marking tape/label sewn inside the back of sweater, below the neckband, with thread to match the sweater.

 

17. Trousers, Skirts, and Slacks.  Inside, near the top.

 

18. Trunks.  Inside, immediately below the waistband.

 

19. Undershirts.  Inside back, near the neckband.

 

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