MARINE CORPS UNIFORM REGULATIONS
|CHAPTER 10: CARE AND
MARKING OF UNIFORMS
SECTION 1: CARE OF THE UNIFORM
2. No matter how well-fitting a uniform is when new, it will not continue to look its best unless well cared for both during wear and when not in use. A uniform should be put on carefully and kept buttoned. Large or heavy objects carried in the pockets will soon destroy the shape of the uniform. When not in use, carefully place uniforms on hangers and keep in a well-ventilated storage space. Well-constructed wooden or plastic hangers shaped to fit the shoulder contour, with locking trouser bar or clips, are recommended. When uniforms are folded in duffel bags or other containers for storage or shipment, fold them carefully to preserve their original shape.
2. According to manufacturer's label instructions, white dress uniforms of polyester or polyester/rayon gabardine may be either professionally drycleaned, or laundered and pressed. As drycleaning has frequently caused the polyester/rayon uniforms to become yellow or gray, hand or machine laundering of these uniforms is preferable. Hand launder in warm water using mild detergent; scrub soiled areas; rinse thoroughly in clear warm water; dry without wringing. Machine launder using a mild detergent; complete washing cycle for 30 minutes in 90o to 120o water; rinse thoroughly in clear warm water; set automatic dryer for regular fabrics and dry for 15 minutes. If pressing is required, use a cool iron. Do not use iron above rayon setting. Do not use hot iron.
3. Other dress uniforms should receive maximum care according to general instructions above and those for the particular type of uniform material. Wool and polyester/wool uniforms are best maintained by drycleaning by experienced drycleaning establishments.
4. Medals, insignia and other accessories should be cleaned and removed from the uniforms when not in use to reduce unnecessary strain on the material.
2. Uniform items manufactured of polyester/cotton should not be bleached or starched.
1. Wash in warm water and mild detergent containing no optical brightener or bleach. Tumble dray at low hear (to to exceed 130° F). Remove immediately for the dryer and fold flat or place on a rustproof hanger to ensure heat from the dryer does not set wrinkles. to drip dry, remove from the washer/water and place on a rustproof hanger. Do not wring or twist.
2. A hand iron set on low heat may be used to individually press areas such collar points or pocket flaps to help maintain a neat appearance. Care should be taken when pressing creases, as the uniform is manufactured with permanent creases. Improper pressing may result in multiple permanent creases. No new creases may be created.
3. The use of starch, sizing and any process that involves dry-cleaning or a steam press will adversely affect the treatments and durability of the uniform and is not authorized. (ALMAR 015/02)
10106. BUTTONS AND INSIGNIA
2. Gold-plated buttons that have had the plating removed are likely to turn green due to exposure to moist air. This can be removed by rubbing gently with acetic acid or any substance containing this acid, such as vinegar, followed by a thorough washing in fresh water and drying.
3. The gold-filled parts and the sterling silver rhodium-finished parts of metal insignia are cleaned by washing with soap and water. Avoid using silver polish or abrasive.
4. Service insignia will not be polished. If the black finish wears off, replace the insignia or refinish with USMC approved liquid, black protective coating as sold through the Marine Corps exchange. Use of paints or other unapproved coloring agents is prohibited.
2. Shoes should be kept clean as sand, dirt, grit, etc., have a deterioration action on shoe threads and shoe leather. Clean leather uppers periodically with saddle soap which is a leather preservative. Dubbing should never be used on footwear as such compounds seal the pores of the leather and cause excessive perspiration.
3. Synthetic leather shoes. For normal care, these shoes may be cleaned by wiping with a damp cloth or sponge. Occasional polishing with paste wax or cream polishes may be required; however, excess dust and dirt should be removed before polishing. Use liquid polish with care to avoid streaking. For white synthetic shoes use a good polish in moderate amounts. To cover abrasion or scuff marks, apply a paste wax shoe polish, then paste wax. Stains should be wiped off as quickly as possible, and then cleaned. For stubborn stains, try lighter fluid. On white synthetic shoes, a mild abrasive cleaner may be used if rubbed gently. Do not use chlorinated cleaners, bleaches, or harsh abrasives. For cleaning, never use acetone, nail polish remover, chlorinated dry cleaning solvents, or alcohol. When in doubt about a cleaner or polish, try a little on the instep, close to the sole.
4. Marine Corps Combat Boots (MCCB's). The brown MCCB(TW) and MCCB(HW) should be kept clean by using a stiff bristle brash to remove mud and dirt and then rinsing with plain water. Allow the boots to naturally dry by placing them in a cool, dry area with good air circulation. Use of forced hot air to dry boots will stiffen the leather and cause cracks. Application of special treatments such as waterproofing sealants and wax polish will seal pores and restrict breathing of the leather and is not authorized. Other treatments such as leather conditioning and saddle soap will cause excessive and permanent fading or darkening of the brown leather tanning and is not authorized. The use of edge dressing is prohibited. Spots worn smooth by excessive wear may be gently abraded with either a wire-bristle brush or rough-grain sandpaper until they have a surface appearance consistent with other areas of the leather boot. (ALMAR 015/02)
2. Launder the brown or green undershirts using the permanent press cycle or hand wash in cold or warm water. Do not use bleach or detergents which contain bleaching agents. Tumble dry on the permanent press cycle, drip dry on a rust-proof hanger, or line dry out of the sun's direct rays. Allowing the undershirt to come in contact with oxidizing agents, such as benzoyl peroxide (used in most acne medications) may cause spots which cannot be removed without ruining the shirt.
2. To prevent excess shrinkage after laundering, hand stretch the belts while wet.
2. The grip should be cleaned by wiping with a damp cloth and drying thoroughly.
3. The mountings on the sword and scabbard, including the hilt, are made of solid brass, highly polished or gold-plated. For best results clean all mountings with a cloth moistened with soap suds to which a few drops of household ammonia have been added. Do not use abrasives or polishing cloths containing chemicals. Wipe with a cloth moistened with clear water and dry thoroughly.
4. The scabbard of the noncommissioned officers' sword is covered with leather and should be cleaned with saddle soap. The sword blade and the gold-plated brass mountings should be maintained as indicated above.
SECTION 2: MARKING OF CLOTHING
2. Articles marked with another individual's name will have the first owner's name obliterated by blocking out the name or using a commercial eradicator. The new owner's name will be re-marked according to these instructions. All re-marked clothing, with the exception of uniforms stamped RC 1/2, (Recovered Clothing 1/2 Price) must be substantiated with an appropriate entry on the administrative remarks page of the service record book.
3. If Marines have clothing marked according to previously published instructions, re-marking is not required until the markings become illegible. If a Marine's name is legally changed, re-marking with the new name is not required until the old markings become illegible; however, an appropriate remark will be entered on the administrative remarks page of the service record book.
1. Bag, Duffel. On the outside of the bottom of the bag.
2. Belts (Except Trouser Belts). On the underside, near the buckle end.
3. Belts, Trouser, Web. On one side only, as near the buckle end as possible.
4. Caps. Inside on the sweatband.
5. Coats. Inside the neckband.
6. Crown, Cap. Inside the band.
7. Drawers. Outside, immediately below the waistband, near the front.
8. Gloves. Inside at the wrist.
9. Handbag. On the space provided.
11. Necktabs. On the underside near left end.
12. Neckties. On the inside of the neck loop. (Hook-on ties: On the inside, near the top.)
13. Shirts. Inside the neckband.
14. Shoes/Boots. Inside near the top.
15. Socks. Outside, on top of the foot.
16. Sweater. Stamped on manufacturing label or use marking tape/label sewn inside the back of sweater, below the neckband, with thread to match the sweater.
17. Trousers; Skirts; Slacks. Inside near the top.
18. Trunks. Inside, immediately below the waistband.
19. Undershirts. Inside back, near the neckband.